Q&A: Which Leica M Should I Buy?

by Johnny Martyr

Here’s a DM from a reader in France:

“Hi Johnny, how are you? My name is Victor and I live in Paris. I was intrigued by your article about camera shops in Paris. I am trying to start in the photography world, more as a hobby than anything else, and I wanted to get a first camera from one of these shops. My idea was to get an analog and a digital camera. Do you have any tips to me on what type of analogic camera I could initiate with? I really wanted a Leica. I appreciate your help.

Best, Victor

Pair of M6 TTL 0.85x cameras with 90mm 2.8 Elmarit and 50mm f2 Summicron

My response:

Thanks for writing, Victor. I’m glad you enjoyed my article.

I think when choosing a Leica, the main things you need to consider are what lenses you expect to use, if you want a built-in light meter or not and if you like vintage/classic cameras or more modern cameras.

Some Leica M cameras are best used with particular length lenses and particular speed lenses. If you’re going to use a 35mm as your main lens, don’t buy an M3 or an modern Leica with an optional .85x viewfinder such as the M6, M6 TTL, M7 or MP. The M3 doesn’t have 35mm framelines and .85x viewfinders have 35mm framelines but they are nearly at the perimeter of the finder and not ideal for this length, fine as a secondary lens, but probably not the perfect camera if 35mm is your go-to lens. The M’s with the best viewfinders for 35mm are M2, M4, M5, M4-2, M4-P, M6, M6 TTL, M7, MP, M-A and New M6 all with standard .72x viewfinders. But if you’re going to use a 50mm as your main lens and it’s going to be a 1.4 or or faster, or, you plan to shoot 90 or 135mm lenses with any frequency, the M3, M6, M6 TTL, M7 and MP with .85x finders are the best cameras. They have generous sized 50mm framelines and high magnification to ensure that you nail focus at full aperture. If you’re going to use a 50mm f2 as your main lens any Leica M would be good.

Leica M5, M6, M6 TTL, M7, MP and New M6 have built-in light meters but M3, M2, M4, M4-2, M4-P and M-A do not. It’s important to know that M5 light meters are swing needle display type whereas the rest are LED display type. When M5 meters die, they can sometimes be repaired. M6, M6 TTL and M7 light meters cannot be repaired anymore if they die though there is talk of new M6 or custom meters being transplanted into old cameras. Any meter can be repaired if it’s just a simple wiring or contact problem as opposed to a circuit board problem. But meters are a reason people opt to buy MP and New M6 cameras – to ensure reparability of the light meter in the future. Accessory light meters can be used with Leica M’s that do not have built-in light meters and operate more slowly than a built-in meter as well as do not measure through the lens. But keeping the meter separate from the body is one way to avoid worrying about light meters breaking, since an accessory light meter can of course just be replaced at any point.

The M3, M2, M4 and M5 are considered classic cameras and the M4-2, M4-P, M6, and M7 modern. The MP, M-A and New M6 are sort of a mix between modern and classic and are all available new from Leica. Classic Leica M’s were built by the “adjust and fit” method, meaning that during assembly, each part of the camera would be adjusted by hand to fit the particular camera. Modern Leica M’s were built by the “correct or replace” method, meaning that during assembly, each part either fit or would be replaced with a part that does. The internals of classic Leica M’s are made of brass and the internals of modern M’s are steel. If you’re buying a Leica for casual use and enjoyment of handling and craftsmanship, a classic camera might be best for you. If you’re buying a Leica to use daily and value hard use over cosmetics or collectability, a modern Leica is a better choice.

Oh, and since Victor is looking for a digital camera too – also a Leica, I’m assuming, you can’t beat pairing a Leica M6 TTL or M7 with any digital M. This is because the shutter speed dials rotate the same direction, unlike every other model.

I hope this quick guide was useful for Victor and to everyone reading. There are certainly other things to consider, budget being one of them, but I’ll leave that to you to figure out!

Thanks for reading and happy shooting!


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